Split – capital of Dalmatia
Split is the center of Central Dalmatia: the region’s largest city and transport hub, Croatia’s second city, home to around 160,000 people. It’s about 30 minutes by car from Poljica – easily a day trip, though two days would let you go deeper.
Diocletian’s Palace
What makes Split unusual is this: the old town is a Roman palace. Emperor Diocletian built his retirement residence here around 295 CE – 30,000 m² (320,000 sq ft), high walls, four gates, temples, a mausoleum, and living quarters. After Rome fell, in the 7th century refugees from nearby Salona moved into the abandoned palace, made homes inside the walls, and the structure just kept going. The mausoleum became the Cathedral of St. Domnius; the emperor’s residence became apartments; the colonnaded hall (Peristyle) became the town square.
All of this still functions – cafés, apartments, shops operating inside the Roman walls. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
What to see
- Peristyle – the central colonnaded square with the cathedral. Especially atmospheric in the evening, often crowded by day.
- Cathedral of St. Domnius (Sv. Duje) – originally Diocletian’s mausoleum. The bell tower is climbable; views stretch to the islands.
- Palace cellars (Podrumi) – the old substructure of the palace, now a market and exhibition space. Scenes from HBO’s Game of Thrones were filmed down here (Daenerys’s dragon cellars).
- Riva – the waterfront promenade, Split’s evening gathering place. Palms, ferries to Hvar, Brač, Vis.
- Marjan – the city’s wooded hill, west of the old town. Pine forest and walking trails; 178 m (584 ft) summit has a sweeping view. About 30 minutes up from Matejuška.
- Bačvice – the town beach on the east side. Locals’ favorite; fine for a swim, not a full day.
- Green market (Pazar) and fish market (Ribarnica) – lively in the morning, worth a wander.
Ferries to the islands
Split is the gateway to the Central Dalmatian islands: daily car ferries and fast catamarans run to Hvar, Brač, Šolta, and Vis from Gat Sv. Nikole. A day trip to Brač (Bol, Zlatni Rat beach) or Hvar is realistic: over in the morning, back in the evening. Schedules and tickets: Jadrolinija. In summer, book tickets ahead, especially if you’re taking a car.
Practical notes for international guests
- Parking in the old town is essentially impossible during the day. Use the edge-of-town garages and walk or catch a city bus.
- Food: konobas in the alleys north of the palace tend to be better than the Riva-front places.
- Currency is the Euro since 2023.
- High season (July/August): crowds, heat. Spring and early autumn are far more pleasant.
- Game of Thrones tours are widely offered – quality varies. If you don’t know the show, you’re not missing much.
Getting there
- By car: 30 minutes via the coastal road D8 or the A1 autobahn/E65. The A1 is faster; the coast road is more scenic.
- By bus: regional buses stop in Poljica and go directly to Split. Schedules: ak-split.hr.
- By boat: seasonal coastal boats also connect from Trogir and Marina.
Split Tourist Board Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, 21000 Split Tel: +385 (0)21 348 600 · visitsplit.com
